Whilst in Woolacombe/ Mortehoe I campaigned and won a trip to Ilfarcombe to check out the tunnel beaches.
These are an amazing insight into the social conventions of the Victorian era. Carved out of the rock in the 1820s, a series of tunnels lead down to two (originally 3) different beaches where men and women were able to bathe separately. The women using wooden bathing carriages, which would be rolled out into the water and back in again, using horses, to protect their modesty – never mind the fact that they were on a secluded beach wearing head to toe outfits!
The tunnels themselves are mostly still standing and are actually quite nice, wide and high, mind you they had to be in order to get carriages and horses down them – god forbid a Victorian lady would have to walk (gasp!).
The building of the tunnels helped to transform Ilfracombe from a seaside fishing village, with a healthy sideline in smuggling along the coves, to a hot-spot for Victorian leisure seekers. Prior to the building of the tunnels apparently the town had, had five recorded visitors EVER. So yep, the local economy definitely got a boost! The town itself is full of beautiful Victorian style guest houses and well worth a wander.
Those enterprising Victorians even added a bath house where the faint of heart could enjoy the ‘benefits’ of the sea water at a less chilly temperature. This once housed the boiler /pumphouse for heating the water up and getting it to the baths. How civilised!
There were guides to Victoian etiquette up on the walls such as, “Gentlemen unaccustomed to the management of a boat should never venture out with ladies. To do so is foolhardy, if not criminal.” Indeed! And this sartorial advice, “The ordinary rowing costume for gentlemen is white flannel trousers, white rowing jersey and a straw hat. Peajackets are worn when their owners are not absolutely employed in pulling the oar.” Awesomeness.
Needless to say that while I was geeking out and reading the guidebook whilst sitting on the beach the menfolk were off in their wetsuits swimming. Not exactly Baywatch but at least they made it back in one piece – having read all the horror stories of people drowning at Ilfracombe this was something of a relief!
After a short period of resting on deckchairs (it’s knackering reading...) and some restorative hot chocolates (chilly too) we headed back to the lovely flat.
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